As I made my last turn down the winding road, I watched in the rear view mirror as the flat desert terrain morphed into a lush valley covered with cottonwoods– a universal marker that water is near.
I’m reminded yet again how majestic this shape shifting state is. I’ve driven past this turn off thousands of times and never knew such an oasis existed just beyond the interstate. That’s something I love about New Mexico– all it takes is one turn onto a never before traversed backroad in order to experience a new adventure within a hidden world.
That’s what venturing to Ojo Santa Fe Spa Resort for the first time felt like– a novel journey just when I thought I had seen it all.
Growing up in Taos meant many celebrations over the years commenced at Ojo Caliente, making me very familiar with the original property. Because of this, Ojo Santa Fe wasn’t on my radar until recently. It wasn’t until I stayed multiple nights here that I was able to fully immerse myself in the experience and realize how unique and incomparable both properties are.
I kicked off my stay at Ojo Santa Fe with some pool hopping to acquaint myself with the different spring-fed soaking areas before settling upon the waterside pools that overlook the pond. I was so relaxed I almost lost track of time and forgot about my spa appointments. After spending some time soaking and unwinding, I made my way up to the spa and indulged in a medley of spa offerings which put me in flow with the slower pace of the La Cienega Valley even further. This zen-induced state of mind was accompanied by my sudden respark of wanderlust which was an enjoyable staycation combination; relaxation paired with adventure. The infrared sauna, sensory deprivation float tank, and private soak above the cottonwoods primed me for one of the best massages I’ve ever had; The Ojo Rejuvenator. It started with a 50 minute deep tissue massage followed by a nourishing skin polish made from prickly pear, blue corn and sea salt which definitely left my dry skin rejuvenated and glowing.
Thousands of years ago this land was revered by the Anasazi who would descend from the basalt flats up above to bathe, gather water for nourishment and agriculture, as well for ceremonial rituals at the spring (now Ojo Santa Fe). Hence the use of blue corn (an ancient staple here), and prickly pear (another abundant food source in the region) to create a memorable nod to the ancient culture that once inhabited these sacred lands.
Staying onsite for more than one night really allowed me to saunter through the property and experience some special unexpected wildlife encounters that I would have missed had I just come to soak for the day including migrating ducks, Blue Herons and turtles, as well as an abundant array of nesting birds. Having this unhindered timeframe got me thinking about how historically special and environmentally rare this land is. I was able to further feed this curiosity the following day at El Rancho De Las Golondrinas (open June – October), a living history museum just a few minutes up the road from the springs. As far as museums go, I found this one pretty entertaining because you get to walk through the massive compound to get to each exhibit and the landscape itself is very interesting to traverse. I found myself crossing streams to get to the old fortresses, churches, and grain mills, all while being in the middle of a supposed desert.
This is where I learned that the Spanish settled the valley in the 1630’s and used the spring as a hub to restock and water horses during their travels along The Camino Real (a major trade route responsible for transferring Spanish goods from modern-day Mexico City– the mecca of mesoamerica during this time).
Regardless of the era, this spring has always served as a tranquil headquarters for people of all walks of life to gather and retreat.
Ojo Santa Fe has done a great job of preserving that tranquility while finding ways to integrate modern amenities to further elevate the serene experience. Their restaurant; The Blue Heron, is a great example of this. They source some of the highest quality meats and seafood so you can experience upscale dining (with one of the most amazing views) all while continuing to tune into the solitude that comes with staying in such a remote destination. I had the Scallops and the Chilean Sea Bass during my stay and those were some of the best meals I’ve had in Northern New Mexico. They also grow as much of their own produce as possible at the Ojo Farm in Ojo Caliente, as well as the raised beds at Ojo Santa Fe, utilizing the abundance of mineral rich water and soil to grow food with intention.
On my third day, I finished out my itinerary with one last activity: The Petroglyph Hike which (like the museum) is also located just a few minutes down the road from Ojo Santa Fe. I’ve lived here my whole life and never knew one of the most abundant displays of pre-contact petroglyphs resides just 20 minutes from downtown Santa Fe. This hike is also very easy as it’s only 1 mile and 120 ft of elevation gain. Once at the top, you’ll be rewarded with the sight of many different petroglyphs carved by the Keresan- speaking Puebloan people that lived in La Cienega Valley between the 13th and 17th centuries. I did this hike at sundown before making the two hour trek back to Taos and was blessed with a gorgeous sunset over the valley in addition to the ancient depictions on the lava rocks that awaited me at the top.
As you can see, my days were packed with enriching activities and ample time to relax, while my nights were spent watching the sunset evaporate off of the steamy water and soaking in the tranquil spring-fed thermal pools under the sparkling New Mexico skies (the stars are so vibrant on a clear night as there is very little light pollution from town or around the property). The pond side pools were my favorite as they offered views of the lush oasis, however every pool was unique in its own right offering a different vibe and scenery. It was fun to pool hop and enjoy all of the expansive areas this resort has to offer. I filled the remainder of my time with trips to the puppy patch (they partner with the Espanola Humane where you can play with puppies that are available for adoption!), a visit to the silkie chicken coup (a breed bred specifically for companionship), morning yoga overlooking the treetops, and plenty of quiet time spent sprawled out under the trees listening to the trickling water.
As I left La Cienega Valley and turned back onto the interstate I was so familiar with, I paused to reflect on the past three days. The slow pace, adventure and discoveries made it feel like a lifetime had passed. And while my time had come to leave and head back to the daily hustle and bustle of life, the memories of staying at Ojo Santa Fe will be with me forever.
STAY HIGHLIGHTS
Soaking while watching the wildlife
Although Ojo Santa Fe has many different soaking options, my favorite was pools near the spring which is where I spent the majority of my pool time. I found the views to be an entertaining sight to drift off to and the close wildlife encounters with the ducks, butterflies, and occasional turtle to be a nice reminder of the diverse ecosystem I got to immerse myself in.
Eating ceviche on the patio
Eating ceviche on the patio at sunset while watching the natural spring water turn orange as it reflected the vibrant clouds up above was another treasured experience. Not only was the food spectacular, the views were also a feast for the eyes and made me feel like I was in the middle of a rainforest at a cafe in Asia.
Petroglyph hike at sunset
Doing this hike at sundown was a good move because the temperature was perfect and I got to pair a gorgeous sunset over the valley with viewing the historical markings, further enhancing an already epic experience and closing out my itinerary with a bang.
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